The scent of roasting pecans and rich butter biscuits hits you as soon as you open the door at Scratch Biscuit Kitchen in WaterColor. Then you feel the warm hug of a cozy interior dotted with homey cast iron skillets, rolling pins, and spoons all hanging as decor. It’s not pretentious; it feels like a home kitchen where the biscuits are being pulled from the oven and the coffee is plentiful.
When Matt Moore’s, Director of Concepts and Development, family makes the journey from his small hometown in Georgia (population 4,000), Scratch Biscuit is where he takes them to feel like they’re at home. Jams, jellies, gravy, and most importantly, biscuits are made from scratch daily and served up in a fast-casual atmosphere where 10 minutes is the top wait time.
But it’s the biscuits we need to spend some time with. First, they’re square. Second, they don’t layer and build, they’re drop-style. Third, they’re enormous.
Moore knew they wanted biscuits to be their focus and they wanted to make them from scratch, but he wanted a process that was quicker and gave 100% yield, no leftover dough.
“I’m a chef by trade and I’ve made biscuits all my life. I’m from the south. But I challenged the thought of layering the biscuit four times or five times and putting butter on each layer to create that flakiness. I thought what if we can just mix it one time, drop it into a sheet pan score it, and do square biscuits? So we tried that and obviously the elasticity is different because you don’t have those folds to bind it, but it did create a crumbly knife and fork biscuit just as big as the cathead biscuits we love in the South,” says Moore.
And even if Moore wanted to change them to a more traditional layered biscuit, he couldn’t. The cult of Scratch Biscuit lovers is too large. Even his wife loves them crumbled into their hearty sausage gravy. 400 buttery biscuits fly out the door daily filling the gaping breakfast hole in Watercolor.
Moore adds, “We knew there was a need for a casual breakfast spot to augment Fish Out of Water’s full breakfast offerings, and we wanted to feed people fast while keeping the integrity of our food. We wanted to be able to deliver to the homes in Watercolor make it more convenient for our families who have been coming here for decades. We also wanted to add call ahead so if they didn’t want to dine in, they could ride their bike or golf cart over and pick it up at our walk-up window without having to wait.”
And if you want to dine in, there are plenty of options. The 1200-square-foot space can seat up to 40 people and the outside patio accommodates another 35. The process couldn’t be easier—just head to the counter, place your order, and get a buzzer you take to the table to await your food while you fix your coffee or drinks.
Speaking of the menu, the biscuits are the star, but there are some other standouts.
The mimosa with the orange popsicle garnish is a showstopper, or go for the N’awlins Shrimp & Grits, or a fluffy griddle cake, or a grub bowl filled with eggs, cheese, the meat of your choice, and hashbrowns or grits. Get the grits. As a grit-lover, I can attest to the creamy, yumminess, with just the right amount of stoneground texture—they are sublime.
If you’ve been you know their coffee, specially roasted in Birmingham, Alabama, is delicious. They have something special for you caffeine addicts out there. If you come in and buy a mug at retail price, it comes with a one-year membership to Scratch Biscuit’s Mug Club. They have Yeti and Corkcickle mug models in all different styles and colors. Bring that mug in every time and you get $1 coffee for a year. “It doesn’t matter what style you choose. If you buy a mug, you’re part of the mug club. The only hitch is you have to remember your mug to get the coffee,” Moore adds.
And don’t count out lunch. They make their sourdough bread from scratch for sandwiches like the Yardbird. Then there’s the bevy of patty melts layered with American cheese (the best melting cheese), grilled onions, and Thousand Island dressing. If you’re looking for healthy, they have a selection of salads, granola, yogurt, and fruit. Plus they always have a lunchbox special that includes special of the day, side, dessert, and beverage, perfect for a grab-and-go picnic as you’re heading to the beach.
“Everything is as portable as anything served at a fast food restaurant, but baked with care and served up square—make it as handheld or knife and fork as you like,” says Moore.
